As you do your research on the internet, you'll see kits being built with all kinds of bellhousings. Stock cast iron, aluminum, aftermarket scattershields. If you've ever seen a clutch blow, you'll understand why the scattershield is the only logical answer. I used a Lakewood 15210. It comes with the blockplate and mounting hardware. Be aware, you will need a couple socket head capscrews to mount it properly. The holes are too close to the bend in the housing and standard bolts won't fit. I went to my local bolt source and picked up two 7/16"-14 x 1¼" socket head capscrews.
When I ordered my transmission (TKO-600), I had them install the shorter Ford input shaft. Using this shaft allows bolting the transmission directly to the housing. If you don't use this shaft, the standard Chevy shaft requires an additional spacer. If necessary, this is available from McLeod.
Hydraulic clutch and fork
If you've read the Hurricane forums, you're aware of the problems others have run into with the clutch release system. On a recent visit to the Hurricane factory, I learned from Jason he used a Ford slave cylinder and just cut the end off his fork - it was a breeze. It does work, I've seen his car on the street. A little research and I was in business.
The slave cylinder comes from a 57-60 Ford F series truck. Part numbers are:
The slave bolts to the forward side of the bellhousing mounting ear. There is a second bolt to anchor and orient it. I had to slot the outer hole of the slave about 1/16" to use this second bolt on my FE block. The slave extends down and under the ear. It was necessary to grind a little clearance halfmoon on the edge of my Lakewood bellhousing and blockplate. No modifications were necessary to the block.
The adjuster link is a standard Ford adjuster kit, available from the parts shelves of almost any parts store. The one available has an eye on one end to link up to mechanical linkage. I just cut the eye off and rounded the end of the shaft to work in the slave.
The fork is a Ford #D8TZ-7515-A. I cut the outer edge off the fork, making the cut tangent to the socket for the adjuster. I also drilled a couple 3/16" holes for the tension spring. This particular fork was still too long and hit the frame. I marked the middle of the ford and cut out 1" and then welded the fork back together. I suspect there is a different fork that will not require welding. Jason didn't mention welding and others have reported using a small block fork.
©2009 - Paul R. Proefrock